General Introduction to Rome, Lazio and Admonitio

The splendor of Rome, specifically San Pietro, at night

In part of my dissertation that focused on Romantic era travel writing, I analyzed the letters that Lord Byron wrote during his brief stay in the eternal city in the spring of 1817.  My argument centers around the idea that Byron was afflicted with what scholar Dennis Porter refers to as “the anxiety of travel writing.”

  I am currently dealing with the same condition, although I desire nothing more than to articulate the impressions that I have gathered over the last decade of life in Rome. I want to share my fervor for the eternal city, yet I want my written recollections to be worthy of Rome’s glory. That desire is, of course, a delusion. Rome belittles yet welcomes all.  Byron wrote in his first letter from the eternal city: “But I can’t describe [Rome] because my first impressions are always strong and confused” (BLJ V, 221). I am certain multitudes of travelers in the 200 years since Byron recorded his first impressions have felt a similar sensation (me included). I challenge anyone not to have a ‘strong’ experience in the capital city. I believe there is no neutral experience in Rome, and that is part of her glory. You may have a ‘strong’ reaction to the throngs of people slogging through the hall of maps in the Vatican museums. Contrariwise, when you find an empty corner of Trastevere, such as Vicolo dell’Atleta leading to Via dei Genovesi, a sublime feeling of peace quiets your soul. Rome is a city of extremes, of contradictions, of heightened emotions.

A view of Via Dei Genovesi in Trastevere

A window view in Rome, one of many unassuming but awe inspiring sights

     If, however, you are familiar with Byron’s literary works, you will know that he did in fact describe Rome in one of his most famous travelogues, Canto IV of Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage. This contradiction is perhaps a perfect starting place for my recommendations for Rome. The contradictions of this city, ‘the city of the soul’ are a defining feature of the city. Byron, by the way, also coined this phrase, ‘the city of the soul’ which I have adopted and certainly use far too frequently. The full quotation is ‘Oh Rome! My Country! City of the Soul!’ and it wholly captures how I feel about the locus (place) and the genius loci (spirit of the place), for that matter. So, with my own anxieties and inferiority complexes, I will attempt to share what makes the city of Rome and the region of Lazio so special for me and experiences that, in my opinion, should not be missed.

Admonitio

I chose many more features for this region that I have called home for over 9 years. In fact, I have used my restaurant posts to provide more context for specific neighborhoods within Rome. Thus, you will find history and cultural context before descriptions of the food, called general introduction. If you are only interested in the culinary, skip to the last passage of the post titled restaurant specifics. At the very end, I also give a menu style breakdown of the choices I have enjoyed at each restaurant. However, I chose these restaurants because they represent the best of Roman cuisine, in my opinion. Therefore, go with your gut, literally. For the spots and regional features selections, I have also allowed myself to expand more than I have for the features in other regions.

I encourage you to comment with any questions or observations on my choices!